Limestone tile installation guide

You can find limestone is some of history's marvelous works of architecture, including the Egyptian pyramids, the Tower of London and some of Frank Lloyd Wright's most famous homes. The most impressive, perhaps, are the pyramids, as these structures have weathered the test of time and still confound engineers. The limestone itself, however, is less of a mystery. Humans have been using it to complete structures like those we mentioned for thousands of years because it's durable, beautiful and versatile. If you're looking for new tiles for your home, you might make like an Egyptian and choose limestone. But if you pick these tiles, make sure you install them properly to prolong their life and maintain their high-quality look. Here's how to install limestone tiles:

Where they go matters

Limestone tile makes beautiful floors, backsplashes and shower surrounds, so you can use it in a number of places in your home. Of course, where you install limestone tiles matters. When applying them to a wall, you have to take gravity into consideration – they are heavy stone, after all, and if not correctly installed, they could fall. Also remember that size impacts installation, too.

Limestone tiles create stunning shower surrounds, backsplashes and floors.

Step 1: Clear the area

Before you can install natural limestone tiles, you have to remove the existing floor, backsplash or surround. To do this, you'll need a chisel and hammer. And, of course, don't forget to wear safety glasses. Tile pieces could fly as you remove them, and you don't want any shards where they shouldn't be. 

Insert the chisel beneath the tile (as best as you can), then hit the back with your hammer to push pry the tiles lose. Try to move the chisel horizontally as opposed to downward, as you don't want to ruin the subfloor or drywall. Tiles that have been correctly installed could take a while to remove, and you might break the pieces – that's OK. Work your way over the floor, backsplash or surround until you've removed all the pieces.

Step 2: Clean your space

You'll notice now that the area in which you're working is covered in rough, bumpy thinset. Remove this to create a level surface. You can do so with your chisel and hammer, following the same method as before. However, a chisel by itself may be enough.

Once the surface is smooth, use a broom to sweep away debris. Come back with a shop vacuum to get rid of lingering dust. 

Step 3: Measure and mark

With a clean and level surface, you can prepare for tiling. Measure the space to see how much square footage you plan to cover. Doing so can help you estimate the number of tiles you'll need. You should have completed this step before ordering the tile, but doing so again gives you a chance to double check and figure out how many pieces you should cut.

For both flooring and other surfaces, use a chalk line to mark the center of the area. This will help you maintain a straight line as you work through the room and ensure the overall design is even. Additionally, the chalk mark will act as your starting line.

Step 4: Mix thinset

If you don't have premixed thinset, now is the time to prepare it. Pour the thinset into a bucket and slowly add water. As you incorporate the liquid, combine the components using a paddle mixer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to ensure you use the right ratio of water to thinset. Let the mixture sit for five minutes, then mix again right before use.

Step 5: Install and cut tiles on the floor

For the actual installation process, you'll need your tiles, thinset and a trowel. If you're installing flooring, you may also want to wear knee pads to avoid hurting your joints. 

Start tiling against a wall, right along the chalk line. This should give you a perfect right angle to work with. Scoop thinset with your trowel and spread it over the subfloor (or wall). Only cover a small area at a time and ensure the thinset coats your workspace evenly. Dampen the back of your limestone tile with a sponge and water. Limestone absorbs moisture, and it will suck the water from the thinset. This speeds up the set time, which actually creates a weaker bond than a longer set time would. Dampening the tile ensures the set time is longer and the bond is stronger. Lay your first tile so one end is against a wall and the other abuts the chalk line. Work along the wall from there.

When you hit another wall, you may need to cut the tile to fit. Use the contractor suggestion of "measure twice, cut once." You'll need a diamond wheel cutter for this task.

Once your first row (from chalk line to wall) is complete, go back to the chalk line and move against the wall to the other side. Then, move to the next row, always starting at your chalk line. Spread the thinset before laying the tiles.

Consider using spacers to ensure you lay each tile evenly. If you do, place the spacer against each tile before laying the next.

Place spacers between your tiles to maintain an even layout.

Step 5 (again): Install and cut tiles on the wall

For a floor installation, you only need to worry about starting against a wall and a chalk line. In the bathroom or on the kitchen wall, however, you must contend with gravity. For this reason, always start from the bottom and work your way up. Otherwise, follow the same instructions for the floor.

Step 6: Clean and seal

Wipe down the now fully installed tiles to remove pieces of thinset or other debris. Then, spray a sealant over your tiles. This step protects limestone from stains, as this natural stone is porous and can become discolored if not sealed. 

Step 7: Install grout

Ideally, the grout you choose should match the color of your limestone. Mix it following the manufacturer's instructions, and spread it into the gaps between your tiles with a trowel. Don't forget to remove your spacers before you start adding the grout.

Clean your tiles one more time and let them set before you start walking on your new limestone floor.

A note on wall corners

On the walls, you'll have to tile corners. Cut pieces in the corners to match the wall you already finished so the stone looks like it continues the pattern. Basically, if the tile in one corner is small, the one immediately next to it on the other wall should be longer, and the two together must be the length of a full-size tile.